Yellow Flowers in the Sunshine

Happy Around the World week of IPM2018!

I’m cutting it a little fine with this make, but I don’t care one dot because I am so happy with this coat.

Being that I live in New Zealand, I do have pick of the bunch when it comes to patterns that aren’t from my country! I ended up choosing The Chilton Trench by Cashmerette Patterns. I have been meaning to make myself some jackets and coats (given I own the grand total of one!) and this pattern just spoke to me. Clean lines and fun details, it was just what I was looking for.

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I went ahead and made the full length version right out of the gate, as I had a good five and a half metres of this lovely mid weight cotton, and it seemed silly not to have as much of it as possible on me at one time!

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I cut a size 20G-H through the body, with a 24 in the sleeves as ya girl has Hulk biceps and no one needs that on a new make! The sleeve length was perfect, which made me very happy. I kind of adored the two part sleeve and the design lines it created – they give a little interest to the back.

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I chose not to line my Chilton as I wanted something for the upcoming summer – Christchurch isn’t the most tropical of places, and often the middle of the day will be lovely and hot, but the start and end have a bite that needs just a bit more.

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I bias bound the seams with a 12mm double fold bias binding in a matching yellow, and I love the clean lines it created. I won’t lie, the sleeves are missing their binding as it turns out I needed more than 7m of the stuff! Will be fixing that later, but for now it is entirely wearable. Going around the pockets was a bit of a mission, but well worth it for the end result.

Despite not making what I would call an actual trench, I did keep the trench details in the finished coat as I love the look of them. I think it breaks up the print of the fabric, and makes it feel a bit more finished. I have at this stage however opted not to go with the belt, though I did sew it up – I feel like it just isn’t the right look for me, and I feel like i am wearing a very OTT dressing gown with it!

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I am especially happy with the kick-pleat as I haven’t made one before, and I was a bit worried about how it would turn out without the lining – a bit of my yellow binding and it looks great!

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You may have noticed through this that something is missing from my Chilton. That’s right, it doesn’t have any buttons. I just couldn’t find the perfect ones, and I’m not prepared to give such a gorgeous coat anything less than perfect buttons. Given I intended it to be a throw on as I leave the house coat, I am not too worried about missing the buttons for the moment, though I do intend to find them.

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I can’t recommend The Chilton Trench pattern enough. The details are beautiful, the drafting is fantastic, and as always the instructions were my favourite kind – written with pictures. So much better than one or the other! I am definitely going to be making another…

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They’ll see me coming a mile off! Mimi G and Simplicity 8426

Taking a break from our regularly scheduled IPM, here’s a jumpsuit I finished at the end of August that never got blogged!

I saw thia fabric at Spotlight when I had gone in to look at activewear patterns, and had considered it was cute, and on clearance, but as I didn’t have a plan for it, I figured I wouldn’t get it. But as I was digging through the pattern drawer for the pattern I was after, I came across this jumpsuit by Mimi G and I fell in love. And then immediately remembered the fabric, and knew they were made for each other!

I made the largest size in the hips, and the second largest in the bust. Due to the waist being a good fit, and the pants being gathered on, there wasn’t much grading needed, an added bonus. Of note, this pattern has a tonne of ease. Even cutting for a bust a little smaller than my own, it was a bit big in the top. Now, with my love of lifting heavy objects, I need to take it in.

In this shot you can see the particularly unique armhole shape, given by the way the yoke and main bust attaches. I really love this design feature, but it somewhat exacerbates the fact it is a little big!

As someone with short arms and ample…everything, I love the fastening in this jumpsuit. The zip goes to just above my bra back, and then there is a button (or hook and eye, as I went with) at the back neck. This makes for far easier on and off than other jumpsuit patterns I’ve seen.

I am definitely planning to make another version of this, possibly with a velvet top and pleated chiffon trouser, similar to the envelope image. I love the idea of it!

The only major gripe I had with the pattern was how long the legs were. I’m 5’6”, and I had to take an entire foot off the legs, and hem them at almost 2” and they are still shoe-length on me! If you’ve long legs, you’d probably need to take less off, but if you’re around my height, just know you can probably get away with less yardage than suggested!

I really love the elegant but simple look of this piece. It looks dressy and formal, but also bright and happy – I wore it to work and got a bundle of compliments! My favourite was said in a meeting by a senior colleague, that it was a joyous outfit and that it was refreshing amongst what is normally a very dark-toned wardrobe within offices.

And because it is becoming a trend on here, a bonus shot of me looking extremely unimpressed about something!

We’ll be back to our regular IPM posts at the end of the week with Week 3 – Around the World!

Planner Tote – totally not clothes! IPM Week 2

Hi internet!

For week two of Indie Pattern Month I decided to sew up the Oslo Craft Bag from Sew Sweetness – I’ve loved her patterns for a while, and the Oslo is exactly what I was have been looking for in a planner tote. An added bonus is that it is free when you subscribe to her newsletter. I wanted something big enough that would carry my planner, my sticker books of two different sizes, scissors, pens, and also have space for A4 sheets of print-and-cut stickers. A big ask! But this tote delivers everything I wanted.

I used stashed fabrics, which I can’t 100% remember what they were intended to be when I purchased them, but they work great together for this tote.

Construction took a bit out of me, as I have never worked with foam interfacing before! This is actually a great project to learn to use it with, as there are just five pieces that need it – the long sides, short sides, and the base of the outer bag. I used Pellon Flex foam, and you can bet that next time I get a coupon for Spotlight I’ll be stocking up – this stuff is great! The inner lining and pocket pieces are all made with medium weight fusible interfacing – I used Birch.

I ended up using buttons for the side pockets, rather than snaps as I don’t own a snap setter – yet!

I opted not to use the rectangle rings on the straps because a) I like the look without them and b) because Spotlight didn’t have any when I went!

The big back pocket is perfect for A4 print outs, just as I had hoped.

The inside of the bag has two pockets, as well as a divider – this thing is huge on the inside too! If you omitted the divider you could fit things up to 14″ or so long, which is a really great size.

And here it is all full of my planner supplies – and it still has acres of room for more!

You can see that in the pocket with my actual planner I could easily fit at least another whole planner in that side, perfect.

Overall, this pattern is fantastic. Because it is mainly constructed from rectangles of various sizes there is only one piece of paper needed to print the pattern, and the rest are listed as dimensions to cut out. I drew out the other pieces out on some A3 paper I had handy, as I know I will be making this again! I think my mother might be quite hopeful of one, as she was cooing over it rather a lot when she came to visit – it would make a fantastic project bag for knitting. I’m also thinking about making one for a friend who is expecting, it would be a good nappy bag too!

An extra that this pattern has which I think is just fantastic is that there is a sew along video which was brilliant. That is alongside picture based instructions – it made all the steps so easy!

If you’re in the market for a tote for any reason at all that I can think of, this pattern should definitely be on your radar!

Indie Pattern Month Week One: Dresses

Hey internet!

You all know (or should know!) that I adore Indie Pattern Month held over on The Monthly Stitch. It is one of my favourite times of year (alongside the annual OAL on the Untangling Knots Ravelry group, and TOKmas over at Tiny Owl Knits Ravelry group), and I have great fun coming up with my response to the challenges.

Week one is an old favourite of IPM and of mine – dresses. I tend to wear a lot of dresses as I find them fun to sew, and also easy to wear. All I have to do is chuck the dress on, stick on some leggings/bike shorts to stop the dreaded chub-rub, and I am good to go.

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The dress I decided to sew for IPM Dresses is the Itch to Stitch Chai Shirtdress. I’ve wanted to make this for a while, as it is a style I think looks fantastic, and the gathered bust makes it an easy fit for my H-cups.

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I made a size 20, but increased the waist and hips by about an inch and a half as I wasn’t quite in the measurements – and I am glad I did as it is a little slim fitting right at the moment through the hips! The waist feels great now though.

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I made it up in a truly lovely rayon from Spotlight with a watercolour cactus print. I decided not to interface any of the pieces as I loved the drape of the rayon and I didn’t want to hinder it at all – I am glad I didn’t as it feels exactly like I wanted it to, a very soft and drapey but structured at the same time. Perfect.

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I will admit – this doesn’t fit quite the way I would want it to. Though, to be fair, part of that comes from the fact that I have eaten a LOT of bread and salt over the weekend, and I am rather bloated at the moment! I also, despite checking measurements, find that the bodice is a little too long on me – will definitely be shortening when I make my next one. I have plans for at least another dress or two, and several shirt versions. It is just a gorgeous pattern and I love how it looks. Next time I will also widen the hips and waist again, adding another two inches or so, just to give it a more flowing look. I spaced the buttons an inch and a half apart, as I need rather a lot to prevent boob-gaping!

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Overall, this is one of my favourite makes of late. Even with the billion button holes, and buttons, I can’t wait to make another.

Happy Birthday, TMS!

So September is birthday month over at The Monthly Stitch, and I was super excited about sewing something inspired by our most excellent mods. One thing I noticed was common between all the team was a vested interest in prints! So many fantastic prints, so many makes! I had to make something inspired with a funky print.

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In comes some fabric I’ve had in stash for an absolute age – my bright neon glasses print on navy. I knew what I wanted to make with it too, a Seamwork Arden. So off I went! (And those of you with eagle eyes will see that this combo was going to be on my table for the miss bossy challenge, but I never actually got to sewing it…)

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I didn’t make any changes to the pattern, as I know Seamwork patterns and I are pretty good friends. I decided not to make any contrast panels, as I wanted as much of this gorgeous print as possible!

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I did have a bit of a hard time sewing through all the layers to attach the bow to the bodice piece, but the work (and broken needle!) were worth it in the end – it is one of my favourite details.

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The sleeve length is ideal for me, as I am rather short in the arms, and I didn’t need to shorten these ones – if you’re more long-armed than I, you might want to add an inch or so for it to hit right. I am most pleased with my cuffs as well, I think I put a lot of work into them and they actually turned out okay!

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I also tacked down the collar at the shoulder seams, and I may yet tack it down a few more times around the back, as mine just does not want to behave.

You can see the slight sticky-uppy nature of the collar in the next shot:

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And one bonus shot of what like 80% of the photos my fiance took look like – turns out I am not a good subject!!

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Happy Birthday, TMS – can’t wait to spend more years with you!

Miss Bossy Is Back!

Happy almost-April friends!

Over on The Monthly Stitch Miss Bossy has come back around with ideas for our April makes – and I need your help to choose! I’ve found three stash patterns (all PDFs I bought but haven’t made!) and three stash fabrics to go with them, but you get to choose what I sew. This is what I have:

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The Itch to Stitch Bonn shirt with a William Morris print cotton.

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The Seamwork Arden in a bright glasses print floaty polyester.

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Or the Seamwork Lilliana in a bright af tartan.

So, what does everyone think I should make?? Vote below!