I’m cutting it a little fine with this make, but I don’t care one dot because I am so happy with this coat.
Being that I live in New Zealand, I do have pick of the bunch when it comes to patterns that aren’t from my country! I ended up choosing The Chilton Trench by Cashmerette Patterns. I have been meaning to make myself some jackets and coats (given I own the grand total of one!) and this pattern just spoke to me. Clean lines and fun details, it was just what I was looking for.
I went ahead and made the full length version right out of the gate, as I had a good five and a half metres of this lovely mid weight cotton, and it seemed silly not to have as much of it as possible on me at one time!
I cut a size 20G-H through the body, with a 24 in the sleeves as ya girl has Hulk biceps and no one needs that on a new make! The sleeve length was perfect, which made me very happy. I kind of adored the two part sleeve and the design lines it created – they give a little interest to the back.
I chose not to line my Chilton as I wanted something for the upcoming summer – Christchurch isn’t the most tropical of places, and often the middle of the day will be lovely and hot, but the start and end have a bite that needs just a bit more.
I bias bound the seams with a 12mm double fold bias binding in a matching yellow, and I love the clean lines it created. I won’t lie, the sleeves are missing their binding as it turns out I needed more than 7m of the stuff! Will be fixing that later, but for now it is entirely wearable. Going around the pockets was a bit of a mission, but well worth it for the end result.
Despite not making what I would call an actual trench, I did keep the trench details in the finished coat as I love the look of them. I think it breaks up the print of the fabric, and makes it feel a bit more finished. I have at this stage however opted not to go with the belt, though I did sew it up – I feel like it just isn’t the right look for me, and I feel like i am wearing a very OTT dressing gown with it!
I am especially happy with the kick-pleat as I haven’t made one before, and I was a bit worried about how it would turn out without the lining – a bit of my yellow binding and it looks great!
You may have noticed through this that something is missing from my Chilton. That’s right, it doesn’t have any buttons. I just couldn’t find the perfect ones, and I’m not prepared to give such a gorgeous coat anything less than perfect buttons. Given I intended it to be a throw on as I leave the house coat, I am not too worried about missing the buttons for the moment, though I do intend to find them.
I can’t recommend The Chilton Trench pattern enough. The details are beautiful, the drafting is fantastic, and as always the instructions were my favourite kind – written with pictures. So much better than one or the other! I am definitely going to be making another…